Your dog does not need any prior learning to take this course. The first stage of the course ('Capturing Stillness') requires no other behaviours. You can stick at this stage as long as you like.

After 'Capturing Stillness', before you can progress, you will need to have taught your dog the position you want them to go into (sit/stand). Your dog needs to have that behaviour, on the cue you want to use, in your proximity. But it won't take you long to achieve this - and you can be working on 'Capturing Stillness' in the meantime!

Any age of dog can take this course. It will be easiest to begin this material with a baby puppy. That way you are less likely to have a dog which tries to return to you to receive the reinforcer. (A baby puppy hasn't been learning for long enough to have realised that treats happen up close to you, most of the time!)

No. This is a slow-boil behaviour which ideally you would begin early on and keep chipping away at and raising the criteria with - so that by the time you come to run blinds or steady your dog, it is well established. You don't want to hold up your other training whilst you train the remote stop.

Whilst the course is 5 weeks long, it will take you much longer than 5 weeks to progress through the material. Think of the 'weeks' of the course as 'stages' instead.

This course is for all subgroups of gundog, since they all need a remote stop - for one reason or another! 

The first and most important stage of training the remote stop is called Capturing Stillness. This stage is the same for everyone - regardless of the final position you want.

The specific position you want, is much simpler to achieve than the stop itself. Think of the specific position as the icing on the cake - you decide what you want to put on the end of your stop. You can train your dog to adopt any position you like. Some may even prefer a down (setters and pointers in the UK).

The most important (and hardest) aspect of this behaviour to focus on, is the 'stop'. Not the actual position you want the dog to assume. (That is easy.)

The video examples on this course use the remote sit, because that's what I train my own dogs to do. But I  talk about how to train a remote stand/whoa. (This is actually much easier than a sit, because there is no position change.)

In brief:

Yes, the course covers using the remote stop on bird launchers and bolting rabbits. We don't go into great detail about how to do bird intros and how to address pointing issues (that's not what this course is about), but I do cover this material in terms of how it relates to the remote stop. 

You have ongoing access to the course. There is no time limit. You can decide to work through the material more slowly, if you'd like.

Included in every course is unlimited help via on-site messaging with me. Just click on the speech bubble icon in the bottom right of the screen. Easy!

There are many variables in dog training and a lot of them are outside my control. (For example, your own level of motivation, availability of your time to train and your ability to follow instructions!)

There are also many factors which influence how long it takes for any particular dog to achieve a reliable retrieve. For example, a dog's prior learning history, her food motivation and her experience of training.

So it is not possible to guarantee that you will have achieved a certain standard by the end of the course.

But, after 5 weeks, you will be equipped with the necessary knowledge and skill to be able to achieve a great stop with your dog, in the future. It is an achievable goal for your dog! 

No problem! Just contact me within 30 days after purchase and I will give you a full refund.

The courses have been carefully designed to provide you with the right amount of information each week.

Too much information at once can be overwhelming, leading to you skipping material and picking and choosing which bits to watch. (Splitting applies to humans and not just dogs!) You will not get best results, if you approach the course in this way.

Moreover - the exercises need to be practised for at least a week before moving on. (Frequently it will require longer - it depends on the dog's progress.) The number of reps you get in, at each stage of the course, is important for future success.

Even if you are 'only' having difficulties with a later stage of training, the origins of that problem frequently can be found in shaky foundations. For this reason, you will rarely get best results by skipping ahead to where you believe the issues lies. You should first consolidate each previous stage for the requisite time - and ensure you build on solid basics.

Lastly, I care about course content, about how the courses are delivered and about doing the best job I can with what I'm teaching you. I take pride in delivering material in the way that I think is optimal for your learning. 

For all these reasons, I am extremely reluctant to unlock course content early. But, if you feel you have an exceptional circumstance, please get in touch.