Force-Free Gundog/Blind Retrieves

  • £80

Blind Retrieves

Confident go-outs. Straight lines. Train your dog to retrieve when they haven't marked the fall! But how do we achieve such beautiful blinds using force-free training? Does your dog pop, bug or no-go? You're going to need this course!

Going somewhere?

To help the dog run out confidently, we need to teach the dog to run to a known destination.

This is a mobile 'known' destination, because we use a white electric fence post - or a similar white pole. This sticks up over cover, so it can be seen from much further than a white dummy.

We can put the fence post down in many different locations and use it to teach the dog to run far, straight - and with confidence.

This type of blind is called a sight blind. Because the dog can see it. 

Over time, as we increase the distance, the dog comes to believe the white post is out there - even when they can't see it from the line. 

What does the course include?

  • 5 week course (take a look at the table of contents below for details)
  • A comprehensive programme - from no blind retrieve at all to a confident blind up to 100+ yards
  • Begin to address maintaining lines through obstacles, water and cover
  • Detailed video demos of all exercises
  • Presentations on key subjects
  • Unlimited help via on-site messaging

Contents

Week 1: Prep and getting started

**COME JOIN US IN THE FACEBOOK GROUP**
    Week 1.1 How to think about blind retrieves
    • 21 mins
    • 63.8 MB
    Week 1.2 The chain of a blind retrieve
    • 25 mins
    • 106 MB
    Week 1.3 Equipment
    • 11 mins
    • 84 MB
    Week 1.4 EXERCISE - Memories into blinds
    • 20 mins
    • 60.1 MB
    Week 1.4 VIDEO - Starting memories and blinds
    • 8 mins
    • 692 MB
    Week 1.4 VIDEO - Hand target
    • 2 mins
    • 140 MB
    Week 1.5 Homework
    • 8 mins
    • 187 MB

    Week 2: Progressing blinds and adding obedience

    Week 2.1 Using fence posts - the whys and wherefores
    • 20 mins
    • 226 MB
    Week 2.1 VIDEO - Building back from the pile
    • 6 mins
    • 452 MB
    Week 2.1 Breed differences and tips for dogs with less 'run'
    • 16 mins
    • 232 MB
    Week 2.1 Another option - using a tug or flirt pole
    • 2 mins
    • 284 MB
    Week 2.2 EXERCISE - Adding obedience and precision to blind retrieves
    • 27 mins
    • 113 MB
    Week 2.2 VIDEO - Adding obedience and precision to blind retrieves
    • 10 mins
    • 792 MB
    Week 2.3 Homework
    • 4 mins
    • 8.07 MB

    Week 3: Surprise blinds, dealing with problems and introducing your blind cue ('Back'!)

    Week 3.1 EXERCISE - Sneaky surprise blinds
    • 5 mins
    • 57.2 MB
    Week 3.1 VIDEO - Sneaky surprise blinds
    • 2 mins
    • 146 MB
    Week 3.2 Adding your 'blind' cue ('Back!')
    • 20 mins
    • 70.5 MB
    Week 3.3 Popping, no-goes and bugging
    • 18 mins
    • 62 MB
    Week 3.3 VIDEO - Popping, no-goes and bugging
    • 7 mins
    • 538 MB
    Week 3.4 Homework
    • 3 mins
    • 8.36 MB

    Week 4: Permanent blinds (mainly!)

    Week 4.1 Don't obsess about the line - your objective is the 'run'!
    • 5 mins
    • 16.8 MB
    Week 4.2 EXERCISE - Permanent blinds
    • 6 mins
    • 21.2 MB
    Week 4.2 VIDEO - Permanent blinds
    • 2 mins
    • 151 MB
    Week 4.3 Types of blind I don't use
    • 7 mins
    • 24.8 MB
    Week 4.4 Homework
    • 1 min
    • 2.29 MB

    Week 5: Some complexity to leave you with, including holding lines across obstacles (walls, water, cover, sloping terrain)

    Week 5.1 Do we need to fade out the fence post?
    • 8 mins
    • 31.9 MB
    Week 5.2 EXERCISE - Using blinds alongside marks, including walk-ups
    • 9 mins
    • 34 MB
    Week 5.2 VIDEO - Using fence post blinds alongside marks and/or walk-ups
    • 3 mins
    • 43.1 MB
    Week 5.3 Every fence post is not your fence post!
    • 6 mins
    • 15.7 MB
    Week 5.3 VIDEO - Every fence post is not your fence post!
    • 7 mins
    • 989 MB
    Week 5.4 EXERCISE - Lining through cover, changing terrain, obstacles, water etc
    • 22 mins
    • 69 MB
    Week 5.5 How to progress from here
    • 8 mins
    • 29.2 MB

    FAQ

    Got a question? The answer is probably here... 

    Can you unlock future weeks of the course, early?

    The courses have been carefully designed to provide you with the right amount of information each week.

    Too much information at once can be overwhelming, leading to you skipping material and picking and choosing which bits to watch. (Splitting applies to humans and not just dogs!) You will not get best results, if you approach the course in this way.

    Moreover - the exercises need to be practised for at least a week before moving on. (Frequently it will require longer - it depends on the dog's progress.) The number of reps you get in, at each stage of the course, is important for future success.

    Even if you are 'only' having difficulties with a later stage of training, the origins of that problem frequently can be found in shaky foundations. For this reason, you will rarely get best results by skipping ahead to where you believe the issues lies. You should first consolidate each previous stage for the requisite time - and ensure you build on solid basics.

    Lastly, I care about course content, about how the courses are delivered and about doing the best job I can with what I'm teaching you. I take pride in delivering material in the way that I think is optimal for your learning. 

    For all these reasons, I am extremely reluctant to unlock course content early. But, if you feel you have an exceptional circumstance, please get in touch.

    What previous learning does my dog need to have, for this course?

    Your dog can take this course with no prior learning, but the end results will be better if you've taken a couple of other courses first.

    I would recommend taking the Heel course, to ensure you can heel the dog by your side and sit the dog straight at heel in preparation for a blind retrieve or memory. It is fine if you are still clicking and using copious treats for this, it doesn't need to be perfect - but the sit at your side does need to be straight. (Using a treat to achieve this is fine!)

    Secondly, I would recommend the Clicker Retrieve course - so we can develop your dog's reliable retrieve and increase desire for the dummy. It is possible to take the Blind Retrieves course using food instead of bumpers - and using food is a great way to start out - but at some point you will want to transition your blind skills to a retrieve and you don't want to be still dealing with basic retrieving problems by this point. The Clicker Retrieve course will get your retrieve on the straight and narrow!

    Can I take this course with a puppy?

    Yes. If your puppy doesn't yet have a reliable retrieve to hand, you will need to follow the options on the course for training blinds using food (instead of dummies/bumpers). These are great options and often will get better results for beginner dogs than using bumpers anyway.

    If you want to work on your dog's basic retrieve to hand or have any problems with your retrieve, then do check out my Clicker Retrieve course on this site.

    You can follow the Blind Retrieves course at the same time as the Clicker Retrieve course, but will use food for your blinds until you have a reliable retrieve.

    Can I take this course with a dog which doesn't retrieve reliably yet?

    Yes! You simply take the 'food' option when it comes to training blinds. We cover this option on the course and it's actually my option of choice for the majority of beginner dogs anyway.

    But you need to be working on your retrieves, in the meantime - so you can get these into the blinds in the future. You might want to take my Clicker Retrieve course so I can help you more with that.

    What types of gundog is this course for?

    Almost all types of gundog! That's the short answer. The longer answer?

    • Retrievers, you are the retrieving specialists. This is the course you need for blindingly beautiful blinds :)

    • Spaniels will perform retrieves over a shorter distance than retrievers or HPRs, but the methods and approach are the same. So this course is for you, too.

    • For HPRs (versatile dogs, bird dogs), if you are in the UK, this is the course for you.

    • If you have a versatile dog/bird dog/pointing dog and are outside the UK, I would recommend you first research what type of blind retrieve is required. The type of blind retrieve taught on this course, is a straight line blind - where the dog runs out from heel in the direction provided by the handler and keeps running in a straight line until stopped and handled. Some countries or testing systems instead want to see a dog independently hunt up a large area without handling (as in the NAVHDA duck hunt exercise). The course does not cover this type of blind retrieve.

    What equipment do I need for this course?

    We cover the equipment which is needed in detail on the first week of the course, so full info can be found there. In brief:
    • 3x white electric fence post (you only need one for this course but I recommend getting 3x, so you are ready for your 3-handed casting training)
    • Regular sized white plastic/rubber style dummies (x6) - if you use dummies/bumpers for the training
    • 1x small silicone bowl with clip - if you use food for the training
    • Tasty treats
    • Clicker
    • Harness
    • Either long-line or short training tab

    What happens after the course? Is there a time limit on the course or will I continue to have access?

    You have ongoing access to the course. There is no time limit. You can decide to work through the material more slowly, if you'd like.

    What if I have some questions whilst taking the course?

    Included in every course is unlimited help via on-site messaging with me. Just click on the speech bubble icon in the bottom right of the screen. Easy!

    Can you guarantee a reliable 100 yard blind retrieve through all obstacles, by the end of the course?

    There are many variables in dog training and a lot of them are outside my control. (For example, your own level of motivation, availability of your time to train and your ability to follow instructions!)

    There are also many factors which influence how long it takes for any particular dog to achieve a reliable retrieve. For example, a dog's prior learning history, her food motivation and her experience of training.

    So it is not possible to guarantee that you will have achieved a certain standard by the end of the course.

    But, after 5 weeks, you will be equipped with the necessary knowledge and skill to be able to achieve a great blind retrieve with your dog, in the future. It is an achievable goal for your dog! 

    What if I decide the course isn't right for me, after purchasing it?

    No problem! Just contact me within 30 days after purchase and I will give you a full refund.

    Hi, I'm Jo

    I'm a gundog trainer who uses force-free training methods and I've created Force-Free Gundog to help you train your dog