This training is great for establishing strong default responses (stand or sit) in the presence of something-the-dog-really-wants. It is then much easier to transfer these behaviours across to game later. 

But you still need to transfer the skills across - preferably using birds which are under your control through bird launchers or similar. 

Transferring training to game is beyond the material for this course - but keep an eye on new courses coming up, since it will be a subject for a future course.

There is no evidence that playing tug leads to hard-mouth.

Dogs are very aware of what is in their mouths. Many gundog trainers feed their dogs raw food - yet the dogs still deliver game untouched. The dogs know the difference between a rabbit given them to eat, and a rabbit they are sent to retrieve. (Curiously, feeding raw has never been considered a cause of hard mouth, in the same way that tug often is.) Similarly, dogs know instantly when they have made contact with our skin during a game of tug. When playing with another dog, they demonstrate exquisite control over their mouths.

If a dog can manage all this, they can discriminate between a soft fleecy toy and real game.

We don't really know what causes hard-mouth, but it does seem there is a genetic factor - some breeds and lines are more affected than others. It also seems likely that over-arousal is a contributing factor.

Tug brings so many benefits in terms of enrichment to a dog's life. It is a bonding experience for dog and owner. It gives us an alternative reinforcer besides food. It also enables us to do the training covered on this course, which is valuable preparation for work on game.

For all these reasons, if we are to deprive a dog of tug - life-long - on the basis that it causes hard-mouth, then I believe we need strong evidence of this. And there isn't any.

For a deeper-dive, have a watch of the first video of the course - which you can preview for free.

You should not take this course unless you are prepared to play tug with your dog, since tug play is an integral part of the course.

It depends. Often, with some focus on your own play skills, your dog's attitude to tug can be radically improved.

In addition, many dogs which are not interested in conventional tugs are extremely interested in the flirt pole. This appears much more 'alive' to the dog as it seems to be separate from your body.

If you still feel that your dog doesn't have enough interest in toys to take the course, it might be beneficial to first take some Fenzi Academy courses which focus on developing tug play - before returning to this course material.

A flirt pole is a very long whip-like pole. It has a rigid handle and then a long flexible cord coming out of that. On the end of the cord, is a tug toy. 

You can either purchase a dog sport specific 'flirt pole'. Or you can purchase a horse lunging whip and tie a tug toy to the end of it! (This is much cheaper!)

I've been using 'flirt poles' since before they existed as items specifically for dog sports, so I use a horse lunging whip. 

The cord is often too long on horse lunging whips, so I use cable ties to double up the cord and strap it tight to the handle.

This course is intended to be for spaniels and pointing breeds. These are breeds which hunt before the shot, to find game.

Spaniels have a slightly simpler behaviour chain - since they only require the steadiness to flush.

Pointing breeds require both steadiness to flush and also steadiness at the point. The course covers both. The course also covers the different requirements for pointing breeds in the UK and Europe and for pointing breeds in North America.

If you'd like more info about whether the course is for you, have a watch of the first two videos of the course - which you can preview for free.

If you don't want to work your dog, there is no need to transfer the training to game. You can simply use this training to give your dog an outlet for their natural abilities. It will also enable you to control your dog in the presence of high distractions: Even if you don't work your dog, they are likely to find game occasionally by themselves! 

Full info can be found on the course. In brief:

No. This course uses flirt poles and tug toys to train the behaviours which you will later use on game. (If you'd like to.)

YES! This course is ideal for puppies of any age and for young dogs. 

This training is great for establishing strong default responses (stand or sit) in the presence of something-the-dog-really-wants. It is then much easier to transfer these behaviours across to game later. (If you'd like to.)

YES! The course is great for dogs which need to work on stimulus control, whatever their age.

Dogs do need to have some desire to play with the tug and/or flirt pole though. Sometimes older dogs have lost interest in play. 

You have ongoing access to the course. There is no time limit. You can decide to work through the material more slowly, if you'd like.

Included in every course is unlimited help via on-site messaging with me. Just click on the speech bubble icon in the bottom right of the screen. Easy! 

There are many variables in dog training and a lot of them are outside my control. (For example, your own level of motivation, availability of your time to train and your ability to follow instructions!)

There are also many factors which influence how long it takes for any particular dog to achieve a reliable retrieve. For example, a dog's prior learning history, their motivation for the tug and their experience of training.

So it is not possible to guarantee that you will have steadiness by the end of the course.

But, after 5 weeks, you will be equipped with the necessary knowledge and skill to be able to achieve steadiness with your dog, in the future. It is an achievable goal for your dog! 

No problem! Just contact me within 30 days after purchase and I will give you a full refund.

The courses have been carefully designed to provide you with the right amount of information each week.

Too much information at once can be overwhelming, leading to you skipping material and picking and choosing which bits to watch. (Splitting applies to humans and not just dogs!) You will not get best results, if you approach the course in this way.

Moreover - the exercises need to be practised for at least a week before moving on. (Frequently it will require longer - it depends on the dog's progress.) The number of reps you get in, at each stage of the course, is important for future success.

Even if you are 'only' having difficulties with a later stage of training, the origins of that problem frequently can be found in shaky foundations. For this reason, you will rarely get best results by skipping ahead to where you believe the issues lies. You should first consolidate each previous stage for the requisite time - and ensure you build on solid basics.

Lastly, I care about course content, about how the courses are delivered and about doing the best job I can with what I'm teaching you. I take pride in delivering material in the way that I think is optimal for your learning. 

For all these reasons, I am extremely reluctant to unlock course content early. But, if you feel you have an exceptional circumstance, please get in touch.